Need help: Idle controller keeps ICV open after transmission load

drippytess

[unknown]
Thanks for the infos, I'll watch the video on youtube. The hall sensor signal is already inverted, the dwell is 8ms. I'am using the default config for the V4.1.7 firmware, I also tried this config

m102amg-20260416-174935-v417.imf

9kB

, but still the same issue. With these configs the engine should have started up, but nothing.
I made a log with the new Beta Invent Commander, here are the logs from it:

2026-09-14-15-45-42-test-1.zip

8kB

. Based on the logs, we have confirmed actual combustion—the engine spiked to 574 RPM (well above the 95–150 RPM starter baseline) with active fuel and spark. However, it immediately stalled and the crankshaft physically stopped turning before the key was even released. I measured the EMUL voltage, it was fluctuating between -0.8V to 5.5V, so it looks completely normal.
Did you have to setup anything in the zero angle correction? Or how is it, that my engine is so misaligned, that it will not even fire up, but someone else's would fire right up without any modification? It is really confusing for me.
What should I try next, to make it run? The only was is to measure it with the strobe?

Thanks!

oleksiyko

Sstroboscope allows you to see the exact ignition angle.
Well, so the single thought that the coil is defective.

drippytess

oleksiyko
Do you think the coil is defective?

oleksiyko

Is fuel pump working while cranking? If so, then yes, cause there is injecting and there is signal on coil.

drippytess

[unknown]
Yes, it is working, I bypassed it to test it, but still the same issue.

drippytess

@JHM Do you have any idea?

JHM

I had intermittent start issues because of the CKP hall sensor odd polarization.
If you rotate the sensor a few degrees out of aligned position - it works.

Also, you need to recheck the actual ignition timing with a strobe light

drippytess

[unknown]
Thanks for the infos! Do you think that is the exact issue why my engine won't fire? How much should I adjust it and in which direction? I don;t know if you read my logs and the previous messages, but I get constant RPM readings. In this case can this be the hall sensor polarization issue?
Also, can you tell me more about the timing checkwith the strobe light? Can the incorrect timing cause the engine fail to start? What else should I check in case the rotation of the hall sensor won't work out?

Thank you so much guys!

drippytess

oleksiyko
Could be, but could be what @JHM mentioned above. I will try the workarounds and tell you guys if I had success.

drippytess

JHM
I could not rotate it with the screw inside, it is really tight. Or I don't know what you meant here. How much should I adjust it and in which direction? I don;t know if you read my logs and the previous messages, but I get constant RPM readings. In this case can this be the hall sensor polarization issue? Also, can you tell me more about the timing checkwith the strobe light? Can the incorrect timing cause the engine fail to start? What else should I check in case the rotation of the hall sensor won't work out?

drippytess

@oleksiyko @JHM
I tried many things, but still no success. First of all I took out the hall sensor, cleaned the surface around it and sensor itself. Placed it back, and tried to rotate it a few degrees as you said @JHM, but I could not do it, because the hole is too tight, so with the crew inside it won't move degrees. Or what do you mean by rotating it?
My strobe arrived and tried to meausre the angle while engaging the starter motor. Firstly I turned on Fixed angle mode under Diagnostic tab with 0 degrees. It flashed one in every 3 second. It is suspiciously slow. After this I tried the spark with a sparkplug. It was the same. One spark in 3-4 seconds. The engine rotated between 100-200 RPM. I feel like the amount of spark is not enough. I placed the storbe light cable on the wire going from the coil to the distributor. In this case it was flashing 1 or 2 times in 1 second. But, it was not countinous flashing, rather a pattern like this: --- - --- - --- -.
I have no idea if that's normal, but I feel like something is off. Does it point to the hall sensor issue? Is it dead or something is off with the polarity? Could it be that the signal is lost in the EMUL wire? For the whole installation I used FLRY-B 1,5mm2 cables. From the ECU there goes a 2,5m long cable to the coil. Or something is defective and not my fault? I made a video from the spark test with the injector cables disconnected. Also, I show how I connected the system togerher. I attached it to this post. I would be really greatful if you guys could help me.

(Somewhy I could not upload the video itself, because the site does not accept it, but in zip it worked)

img-2383.zip

7MB

(@Larttis I saw you had a similar problem. How did you managed to sove it and made the engine run?)

Thanks for all of you!

JHM

Try rotating the sensor without securing it with the bolt, and see if it helps

drippytess

JHM @oleksiyko
I have finally managed to make it run. The solution was to tilt the sensor, rather than turn it clockwise. I just put a 0.8mm home made spacer under the screw boss. Now it runs and starts well and the idle is really clean. But, I feel like the acceleration is slower than before. I did not check the angle with the strobe yet. @JHM Do you recommend to do it in this case or the angle is automatically correct?

oleksiyko

Try to,, but the best way to check is everything OK is to measure 0-100 😃

JHM

drippytess
The angle is automatically correct, because there is nothing to adjust in the hardware.

So you tilted the sensor tip towards the transmittion?

drippytess

oleksiyko
Good idea, I will do it 😃

drippytess

JHM
Yes, you are right, I tilted the sensor tip toward the transmission. So the sensor is not in the exact position it would be originally. Because of this could it be that the angle is not 100% correct?

Btw thanks for fixing the forum 🙂

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