Audi 5 cylinder turbo
The first thing to do is to remove the intake hose. Then, remove throttle body.
Remove injectors cooling duct.
Removing mechanical injector
Remove mechanical injectors and distributor.
Remove MAF air plate. Secure moving part with plastic strap.
Bend injector ventilation pipe, because it will prevent the fuel rail installation.
Unscrew injector sleeves. Be careful, sleeves have 3 parts, which can fall into the engine.
Plastic part can be extracted with the thread tap
We need this part only. Install it back using engine sealant.
Install additional o-rings on the injectors. Lubricate o-rings, and insert injectors into sleeves until click.
O-ring on injector tip should sit into it's place.
Connect injector harness.
Lubricate o-rings with water, and fit rail into place. Mark and drill holes for securing the rail.
Install throttle body. You should cut the body to fit it.
Fuel lines and filter
Now the fuel lines can be mounted
The metal cylinder with three fittings is a fuel filter combined with a pressure regulator, you will need to get rid of the old original one.
The delivery line that goes from the fuel pump is connected to the "IN" fitting. The return line that goes back to the tank is connected directly to the unnamed central fitting. The main line that goes to the fuel rail is connected to the "OUT".
Use the the three black junctions provided with the kit to connect the rubber line to the filter/pressure regulator and ensure that they are properly mounted.
After the fuel lines are installed, turn on and off the ignition (without powering the starter) 5-6 times, to build pressure in the fuel lines.
Check carefully for any leaks.
MAP sensor location is really important to ensure a great engine operation. Locate MAP sensor exactly as shown on photo.
Drill 13mm hole for the sensor and 8mm for the bolt that will secure it. Cover the drill tip with grease to catch the debris, it is reccomended to clean the intake manifold after drilling the hole to ensure that no metal debris is left in it.
Seal hole with a sealant. Sufficient sealing paste must be applied because the surface of the intake manifold is rough.
Secure sensor with included screw. Apply sealant to the thread, to prevent air leaks and unscrewing.
Never install any sensor with the wires upwards, water will flow off the cable and shortcircuit the sensor.
Clean valve internals with carburettor cleaner, and lubricate with the oil. Don't use WD40, it is not lubricant.
Install back air ducts, hoses, etc.
ECU and wiring
Disconnect battery when working with the electrical system. Connect battery back only when engine have to be started.
ECU is dust and splashproof. It cannot withstand continuous water contact or pressurized water, so it is reccomended to install it in a dry and safe place. Do not install ECU with cable upwards. In this case, water and moisture will flow off the cable into ECU.
Wire colors are not fixed, and can be changed. Wires are labeled. Refer to labels to determine wire purpose.
This is the wiring.
Put the wiring this way:
AFS emulator is needed only for stock trip computer. If you don't have stock trip computer - skip this step.
AFS wires are hidden here:
Cut the middle wire from the connector, and connect to the EMUL wire.
Find the hall sensor connector on the ignition distributor.
Connect DH wire in parallel to the central wire of hall sensor connector.
Connect AN wire to the middle pin of the ignition amplifier.
If you have different amplifier, not like on photo, you should connect AN wire to the control pin. You should find thin wire, connected from the amplifier to the stock ECU. Refer to the stock wiring diagram at the end of this document.
Connect the LAMBDA wire to the signal wire of the lambda probe (see on photo).
Attention! Make sure to disconnect the lambda from the stock ECU to avoid interference.
If you don't have lambda sensor, or your sensor is malfunctioning, you should install universal Bosch sensor 0258986507 or 0258006537
- white wires - to the heating connector
- black - signal to the ECU
- gray - to the ECU ground
Throttle position switches
Disconnect stock connector, and check idle switch resistance. It should be 0..5 Ohm. If higher - switch is worn out, you should replace it.
Check FULL LOAD switch. It should engage at 55-60% throttle opening.
Connect IDLE SW in parallel to the idle switch wire
Connect FULL SW in parallel to the full throttle switch wire
Coolant temperature sensor
CLT wire is connected in parallel to the coolant temperature sensor
Intake air temperature sensor
CLT wire is connected in parallel to the air temperature sensor
Warning! IAT sensor should be functioning correctly. It is original sensor, it's not replaceable with ordinary resistive sensors. With IAT malfunctioning, ignition system will not work correctly.
Disconnect old idle valve connector, and connect new one, labeled IDLE.
Connect power wires to the battery. Secure main relay near the battery.
Connect COIL +12 wire to the ignition coil +12V terminal. This wire is used for switching on the main relay.
Connect EXT wire to the air conditioner clutch wire. It is used for maintaining idle RPM while air conditioner is operating.
Normally, you will use Bluetooth interface to connect to the ECU. In rare cases, BT connection is unreliable, so you can use K-Line instead.
To connect K-Line cable, you should prepare 3 wires:
Pinout of the K-Line cable:
Pinout of the car OBD2 connector
There are other wires, not mentioned in this manual. They are reserved for future use. Isolate and hide unused wires into the harness.
Stock ECU wiring diagram
Stock IAT sensor
MAP sensor pinout
Invent Jetronic ECU pinout
View at the ECU connector
|B||+12V||CLT||TPS||AN||KLINE||EMUL||IDLE SW||FULL SW|
(*) - АС input is available starting from ECU version 2.3
- MAP - absolute pressure sensor
- TPS - throttle position sensor
- IAT - sensor air temperature
- CLT - coolant temperature sensor
- DH - Hall sensor
- AFS - airflow sensor